Paracas is an essential stop on the Peruvian backpacker circuit, and in this guide you’ll find everything you need to know to plan your visit including the best things to do in Paracas, where to stay, and some tips on where to eat.
Updated October 2023
With the spectacular Galapagos Islands topping the bucket-lists of many a visitor to South America, it comes as little surprise that there are a number of smaller attractions in the region laying claim to being the budget friendly alternative.
We had already experienced Ecuador’s Isla de Plata but Paracas - a small Peruvian coastal town three hours south of Lima - also lays claim to the title of the ‘poor man’s Galapagos’.
On our first big Latin American adventure, we had passed through in winter and bad weather prevented us from experiencing some the best things to do in Paracas; we swore it would be different when we returned! And thankfully, with endless summer sunshine and blue skies, we spent three nights in the dusty, windswept town, which, as it transpired, was the perfect amount of time to experience almost all it had to offer.
Here’s our complete guide to Paracas for backpackers and travellers, including all the very best things to do, where to eat, where to stay, transport connections, and our tips on the little things that can make a big difference to your stay.
the paracas essentials
Nature / Biggest draw are the Islas Ballestas, a boat trip to spot penguins, sea lions and even whales. Easily arranged on arrival or book here in advance.
Desert / Head into Paracas National Reserve by bike, dune buggy or bus tour
Eat / An excellent value menu del dia near the sea, or opt for a meat-free spin of Peruvian classics at Vegano Peruano
End / Catch a beautiful sunset at the beach
Tour / A day trip to Pisco, Huacachina or the Nazca Lines
Stay / Our favourite hostel Paracas Backpackers' House or splash out at little at Casa Paracas
the best Things to do in Paracas
Take an Islas Ballestas Tour
This is pretty much the sole reason the majority of travellers venture to Paracas, so it needs to be on your list.
From the moment you step off of the bus until the moment you leave, you will be inundated with offers to join one of the daily boat trips that head out to Islas Ballestas. These rocky formations, part of the Paracas National Reserve, provide a home base for not only adorable Humboldt penguins and sleeping sea lions, but a whole host of other bird life such as the ever entertaining blue-footed boobie and swarms of cormorants.
You can even spot humpback whales at the right time of year!
The Details | Tours last 1.5 to 2 hours, and depart at 8am.
If you book a tour directly with an agency in town, expect to pay around S/30 - 35 soles for the trip plus an additional S/16 to cover the port fee and the Isla Ballestas National Reserve entrance fee.
We recommend you get your tour arranged the night before to guarantee your spot
Alternatively, if you’re only in town for a short while and need to get a tour sorted in advance of your arrival, this option has excellent reviews (you can also book it on Viator, although it’s a little more expensive).
To find out more about our trip out to the islands - and the key details to help plan your own - take a look at our Islas Ballestas day trip guide.
Cycling in the Paracas National Reserve
Remarkably, the most enjoyable (and by far most adventurous) thing we did during our time in Paracas, was a 30-odd kilometre cycle ride around the National Reserve.
It was hot, it was sweaty, it was off-the-beaten-track, our legs were covered by bicycle grease, the back of our necks burnt, and it took days for our butts to recover from the pothole ridden roads, but the landscapes were (almost literally) out of this world.
For those that travel to seek the epic, this is the day trip for you. In fact, it is one of the best independent day trips we’ve done in Peru.
From the entry to the national reserve the route is super easy to follow, with plenty of sings pointing the way to various beaches and viewpoints. The main sights are La Catedral, Yumaque, Playa Roja and Playa Las Minas, but honestly, the entire 30 kilometre trail is just spectacular so don’t just rush from one famous spot to the next; half the joy is enjoying the incredible landscapes.
The Details | Bike rental is available from many companies in Paracas town, and should cost around S/30 per day. This isn’t the time to skimp on costs to save a dollar - trust us, you want the best bike you can afford as these are some super bumpy roads!
You’ll also have to pay fee to access the National Reserve (S/11 per person), paid on arrival to the entry point. That is unless you arrive super early like we did…
We spent the entire day exploring the desert, which allowed time for a lovely seafood lunch near Playa Roja, plus some beach time towards the end.
Piqued your interest? We’ve written this post all about where to rent a bike and how to do a day cycling through the Paracas National Reserve, including full details on the route you’ll follow, our favourite spots, all the beaches, where to grab lunch and advice on sorting the bike rental.
Travel Tip // If you’d like to combine your visit to Paracas National Reserve with Islas Ballestas, consider joining this tour.
Explore the Desert Bike Free
If the idea of cycling 30+ kilometres in the blistering desert heat sounds frankly quite atrocious, do not fear - there are much less gruelling ways to experience its other-worldly beauty.
Take a Bus Tour | If you’re out of energy or not the most mobile individual, a relatively new way to explore Paracas National Reserve is with a bus tour. These tours take around 2.5 hours and visit several of the most famous sites, but do be aware that you will spend far more time inside than outside the bus so it may not suit everyone.
We’re unable to source updated prices for this tour - we know they previously cost around S/30 per person - so if you’ve been to Paracas lately and can give us the answer to help future travellers, we’d love to hear from you in the comments.
This tour can also be booked in advance here.
Hit the Sand Dunes in a Buggy | A increasingly popular way to explore the Reserve is on a sand dune tour - especially amongst those that do not plan to go to Huacachina, Peru’s dune buggy and sandboarding capital.
Not only will you cover many of the best sites and viewpoints whilst getting an adrenaline high, you’ll also have the chance to venture deeper into the reserve, into areas that can’t normally be reached on foot or bike.
The ATV sand dune tour can be arranged by pretty much any hostel or tour operator in town (approx S./ 40 per person) but if you need to book in advance, see this link. As with many things to do in Paracas which we recommend, booking in advance can work out more expensive, but we know that for some people, organisation or a shorter trip time in Peru makes it a necessary evil.
Travel Tip // Want a completely different vantage point over Paracas National Reserve? Consider heading out on this popular paragliding experience to enjoy the desert and coast with a bird’s eye view.
Take A Day Trip
Whilst most backpackers will choose to visit Paracas purely to enjoy the nature and adventure opportunities on its doorstop, it is well-located for a few popular day trips.
Pisco Tasting | If you’re keen to become more acquainted with the local drink (beyond your beach-side, happy hour tipple that is), we’d recommend taking a trip out to where its made! It’s not really feasible to reach the haciendas without your own vehicle, so if you’re up for some tastings you’ll be best off taking a tour. As far as we’re aware, there aren’t any that leave directly from Paracas, but you can easily hop the bus to Ica (one hour) and join this super popular tour out to the regions best producers.
Tambo Colorado (maps) | Located around an hour from Paracas are a collection of incredibly well preserved Inca ruins known as Tambo Colorado, thought to some of the most intact on Peru’s south coast. Built in the late 15th century to serve food and provide lodging to passing travellers, this particular ‘tambo’ is particularly interesting to historians due to its fusion of two types of Incan architecture; the raised walls of Andean Incas, but decorated in a typical coastal style.
It’s not going to interest everyone, but if you have a passion for archaeology it may be worth the day trip.
If you’re keen on visiting, you may wish to join a guided to tour - this one also includes Islas Ballestas - as whilst it’s possible to reach it independently (you’d have to catch the bus to Pisco and then either an early morning colectivo or hire a taxi), it’s not the easiest place to reach.
Nazca Lines | Despite some back and forth over cost, we chose to board a tiny little plane to view the famous Lines during our first trip to Peru - and we never regretted it. Yes, it is pricey for the duration, yes it makes you feel terribly nauseous, but yes, yes, yes, it is pretty darn special! If you don’t have time to add a night in Nazca into your itinerary but really want to do this, you could take this tour from Paracas instead.
Hang out in the Town
FIrst things, first: Paracas is not the prettiest of towns.
Dirt roads, construction heavy design, and a look that screams both falling apart and in the middle of being built at exactly the same time. But what it lacks in design and flair, it more than makes up for in happy hour deals (hint, it’s happy hour, every hour here), two course fish dinners, and a troupe of hairless Peruvian dogs.
It’s even got a little stretch of beach which, with the help of local volunteers and some strongly worded signs, remains pretty clean (more on that later).
The centre of the town only consists of a few streets, the beachfront promenade, and the palm-tree centred Avenida Paracas thoroughfare, so it doesn’t take too long to acquaint yourself with it and get to know where will become your regular haunts.
Travel Tip // For a deeper insight into the history of Paracas (and the surrounding area), consider stopping by Museo de Sitio Julio C. Tello de Paracas and Museo Histórico De Paracas. These small museums contain a lot of artefacts found in the area - mostly pottery and stoneware - but also elongated skulls which show Peru’s history of head binding.
Spend the Day at the Beach
If you’ve travelled through other countries in South America before hitting Peru, you’ll already know that whilst this country may have some of the continents most epic hiking trails, its beaches - particularly its city beaches - are never going to be its biggest draw.
With that said however, Paracas town does indeed have a decent-sized beach area, usually dotted with colourful parasols and frolicking locals. This is especially true at the weekend when people living nearby flock here for a little down time.
The beach is essentially split into three sections by the placement of small piers:
Backed by lots of shops and restaurants, the first section is the busiest. It’s where you’ll find all the pedalo rentals, an inflatable waterpark and the most crowds. There are pelicans all along this stretch of coast but they’re most abundant in the first section as there’s a designated feeding area here.
The middle section operates as the town’s harbour and whilst it does have a sandy area, the water isn’t the best due to all the boats.
The third section, to the north, is the quietest and is backed by a large resort.
Kite Surfing | In addition to the pedalos and the inflatable waterpark, an increasingly popular water-based activity in Paracas is kitesurfing, with excellent conditions almost all-year tround (with the exceptions of June and July when the winds tends to lessen its rating drops to ‘moderate’).
Because of these great conditions, there are a number of companies in town that offer equipment rental (you can hire all equipments for around $70 USD per day), lessons (expect to pay around $70 USD for a one hour private lesson) and retreats.
Top Tip // The beach is the best place to watch the sunset in Paracas. Grab a cold beer, and watch the sun change to a brilliant orange!
Where to Stay in Paracas
For a small town, there are a surprisingly large number of accommodation options - from fancier hotels, to flash-packer hostels and budget-maker hospedajes. This reflects Paracas’ popularity not only amongst backpackers and tour groups, but also amongst holidaying Peruvians.
These are your best Paracas accommodation options:
Paracas Backpackers' House | This is where we stayed on our most recent visit to Paracas, and we can’t recommend it highly enough. With light and airy doubles for S/70, a decent kitchen, good wifi, large social areas, three cats, and ocean views from the top floor (which by excellent coincidence, was also where our room opened out on to). Staff speak minimal English, but they have enough to deal with any queries if you don’t speak Spanish. To check prices and availability, check here.
Do note that a large number of hostels in Paracas and on the very same street as Paracas Backpackers’ House - either through lack of imagination or an attempt to steal custom - are also using this name (or slight variations of it), so be sure you either book ahead or be certain that you are checking into the correct place (see picture below).
Kokopelli | We actually spent a few nights here last time we were in town. It’s definitely not going to provide you the cheapest bed for the night - or guarantee a good night’s sleep - but it has a nice little pool, private section of beach, cracking dorms and a reputation (very much lived up to) for a party. It’s the best bet if you want a more social, flash-packer experience, or a few days away from more basic hostels. There’s no kitchen but it does have a restaurant, a well-stocked bar and good social areas. Given its popularity, it really is necessary to book ahead - check prices and availability here.
Icthus Paracas Backpackers | This family run hostel is a lovely option with a cosy homely atmosphere. There are options of private rooms with ensuites or dorm rooms, they are basic but everything you need for your stay. Find out more here.
If budget is a little more important to you, you can find a double room on the same street as Paracas Backpackers’ House for around S/. 45 or a dorm bed from S/. 25 , but be aware that the facilities reflect the lower price.
A little beyond your backpacking years? Then you’ll be pleased to know that there are plenty of guest houses and fancier hotels in Paracas to cater for the number of Peruvians that visit this popular national holiday town.
Casa Paracas | This beachside hotel has a great terrace with BBQ facilities and stylish, modern rooms that are a world away from basic hostel life. You are just a few metres away from Chaco beach, close enough to hear the water! Find out more here.
Paracas Guest House | Another great option is this guest house with pool and rooms with views over the garden (most with a balcony). It is a little further away from the beach but a short walk to the main part of town and everything you need. Check prices and availability here.
Hotel Paracas | VERY fancy - far, far from a backpackers lifestyle - and with a higher price tag to match but if you are looking to splurge this is the one. The rooms are large and, frankly gorgeous. Book massages, relax in poolside cabanas and enjoy ceviche from the onsite restaurant. Find out more here.
Where to Eat in Paracas
If you’ve just arrived into Peru from Europe or the US, then Paracas will feel like quite a cheap place to hang out for a few days. However, if you’ve travelled throughout the country you’ll note that it’s a bit more expensive or limited than elsewhere for certain items like groceries, drinks, and eating out.
These are some of the best options for travellers:
Restaurant stalls at the western side of the beach (near Kokopelli hostel) | These small ‘ma & pa’ restaurants provide near-identical traditional Peruvian menus morning, noon and night for wide-ranging prices.
Given the set-up, you might expect them to be particularly budget friendly, but in order to secure the best prices, you need to request the menu del dia. Although probably the most expensive set meal we’ve found in Peru, with a soup, main and drink included, it’s a good option for hungry travellers. They specialise in fish and ceviche dishes. If you venture towards the other end of the promenade (after the dirty bit of beach and artisan stalls), you will actually find a handful or restaurants offering similar lunch deals for the same or a little less.
Vegano Peruano (maps) | For many of us, food and trying the local delicacies is an integral part of the experience - unfortunately for veggies (and vegans), many of these dishes contain meat or dairy. With plant-based alternatives to many Peruvian favourites, Vegano Peruano aims to bridge that gap. It’s based on the fourth floor and accessible by lift - note that it’s in the same room as Restaurant Paracas which is a highly-rated option in town for a finer Peruvian dining experience.
Misk’i (maps) | Set one street back from the beach, Misk’i is quite possibly the coolest place to eat in Paracas - and very popular with the backpacker set. There’s a wide selection of the yummiest foods, including pizzas, Mexican fare and burgers. It also has lots of veggie options and some interesting beers.
Waiki Pizza Bar (maps) | You’re unlikely to find an excellent pizza in Peru, but this isn’t a bad option when those carb cravings hit. Set within quite a cool space, it’s a popular place amongst Peruvians and travellers alike. They also offer a variety of burger and tex mex options, with a plenty of meat-free choices on the menu.
Trattoria de Paracas (maps) | Located within Hotel Paracas (that super fancy hotel we mentioned earlier), this restaurant offers the sort of fine dining that one may not necessarily expect to find in a small Peruvian beach town. As the name suggests, they specialise in Italian food. The hotel also hosts Chalana restaurant, a beachside spot ideal for a seafood lunch whilst the waters lap beneath your feet.
Milla Cero (maps) | Looking for a lightly more upmarket take on Peruvian classics (with the odd bit of sushi thrown in)? Consider this relatively new restaurant. The reviews are excellent, especially regarding the ceviche.
Fruzion (maps) | Staying in a guest house or hostel that doesn’t include breakfast or fancy a heartier start today? Head over to this great little spot that specialises in brunch specials. The pancakes are particularly good!
For afternoon beers by the beach, or a 2 happy-hour cocktails for S./ 18 (note that this offer is always available at most bars throughout the day), we liked Karamba (maps).
If cooking your own meals in the hostel, then you are limited to a single shop on the corner of Alameda Alan Garcia Perez and the small park (it’s a few doors down from ‘Good Market’ which has few options); it has a surprisingly good range of fresh fruit and veg but do be aware that the prices are jacked up quite considerably. Find it here.
How to get to Paracas
Paracas is a popular spot on the backpacker trail, so getting here is a piece of cake!
How to get to Paracas from Lima (Direct bus)
To travel directly from Lima to Paracas, you have a couple of choices: take a direct bus with either Cruz del Sur or PeruBus.
It used to be that Cruz del Sur, with on-board service, personal TV screens, and added extras, was the more expensive, fancy-pants option. However, they’ve introduced a staggered pricing system, and essentially, the closer you sit to the toilets on the top row, the cheaper the tickets. In fact, if you sit right at the bag, seats are a third cheaper than PeruBus!
Tickets for PeruBus start at around S/50, whereas with Cruz del Sur you can get them for as little as S/32.
It’s worth noting that the PeruBus stop in Paracas is in the centre of Paracas, as opposed to the dedicated Cruz del Sur terminal around a five minute walk away.
Whilst you can certainly turn up on the day to book your bus from Paracas to Lima, to secure the best rate and seats, we recommend booking ahead either on the company websites, or via an intermediary like Bookaway.
How to get to Paracas from Ica
Whilst there are a handful of direct buses to Paracas from the south, they are few and far between. Instead, most people will need to change at Ica - an easy 1 hour and 10 minutes journey away from Paracas.
Expect to pay between S/15 and S/20 per person depending upon which company you opt for.
Onward Travel From Paracas
Note that bus pick-ups in Paracas (unless you’re taking a Cruz del Sur from its dedicated terminal - maps) are on Avenida Paracas (find it here), with the spot to wait either in the park area by Hostel El Amigo or outside Hotel Residencial Los Frayles (this may sound a little confusing but don’t worry - these two places are literally facing each other on opposite sides of the road and there will likely be others waiting).
There are regular departures to Ica - the best place from which to make onward connections - whilst there are also daily departures to Lima.
best time to visit Paracas
It’s a coastal town in South America - surely it’s hot all the time, right? Wrong.
Given it’s at sea level, it’s usually warmer than many places in Peru, but the weather in Paracas can be exceedingly changeable. In fact, despite hanging around for three days when we first visited back in 2015, not a single boat tour was able to make it to Islas Ballestas because of strong winds and rain - it’s the main reason that we had to come back.
If visiting the islands is your sole reason for venturing down the dusty road to Paracas, then we strongly recommend keeping an eye on local weather reports, especially if you’re visiting in winter when the weather tends to be worse.
Conversely, if you’re planning on exploring the Paracas National Reserve by bike, be aware that it can get very hot in the desert (especially in the summer) with next to no shade available for respite.
