There are several ancient castles and palaces dotted along and just off the King’s Highway, so how do you decide which to visit?

Whilst a lot will depend on how much time you have to explore Jordan, there is one that should be on everyone’s list - Karak Castle, the country’s largest and most impressive Crusader Castle.

In this guide we’ll cover everything you need to plan your visit.

Traversing the country from Madaba in the north to Petra in the south, the King’s Highway traces a haphazard path through the rolling, dusty landscapes of Jordan, across an endless expanse of golden hues punctuated by sand-coloured towns, clusters of olive groves and crumbling ruins.

Made for a road trip, many a tourist has spent a day following its route, but for reasons of time or inclination, most are unable to explore all its treasures along the way.

Travel is always about compromise, but there is one stop along this famous road that every visitor to Jordan needs to make time for: the ancient fortified city of Kerak, a 2,000-year old settlement atop a hill that boasts what is considered by many to be one of the greatest Crusader castles ever built.

In existence since Biblical times, and once part of the Kingdom of Moab, a fortress has always existed atop this hill in the desert, but it wasn’t until the 12th century that Kerak Castle as we know it came to be.

Completed in 1161, the fortification was considered vast for its time - much larger than any castles being built during the same period in Europe - and under the control of the Lord of Transjordan it very quickly became an important strong-hold for the Crusaders, its strategic position transforming it into a wealthy centre of power not only for military purposes, but the steady collection of taxes from trade caravans heading to Jerusalem.

The eventual passage of power to Reynald of Chatillon (and his callous inability to adhere to various peace treaties in place) hastened the end of the Crusaders’ reign at Kerak Castle, with the fortress eventually falling under Muslim rule following a drawn out siege by Saladin, the Sultan of Egypt and Syria in 1188.

Over the interceding years, various fortifications have been added and removed, destroyed and restored, with the dark, rough volcanic rock of the Crusader architecture existing mostly on the upper level, whilst later Arab additions are easily identifiable by the chalky white limestone elsewhere.

Kerak Castle is a fascinating place to visit, with much of it still in a raw state of archaeological works and yet-to-be-done restorations. Exploring the seemingly relatively intact ruins, one can get a real sense of how strategically important the castle once was, the power it once wielded, and better stitch together the composition of the Holy Land.

It really is a must-visit on any road trip along the King’s Highway.

In this guide we’ll cover some tips on how to make the most out of your visit, information on how to get there (and some essential details you really need to know about a parking scam), plus our recommendations on where to stay if you fancy spending the night in its characterful, lesser-visited old town

This is our guide to Karak Castle.

P.S. the names ‘Karak’ and ‘Kerak’ are both used for both the name of the castle and the town, so we have used them interchangeably in this article.

kerak castle essentials

// Jordan’s most impressive Crusader Castle
// Located on the King’s Highway
// Entry included in Jordan Pass
// Vast site, so allow enough time to visit
// Be aware of parking scams

Visiting Kerak Castle

You will approach the Castle along K. Hussein Street, before encountering a small modern ticket office (here on Google Maps) where you’ll be asked for your Jordan Pass - if you have one, there’s no fee to enter but don’t worry if not as it’s just 2 JD per person.

Continue straight ahead, across a wooden bridge above a dried-out moat to reach the Ottoman Gate where you’ll likely encounter a number of local guides. These guys charge 10 JD per group, and given the vast nature of the site, may be worth hiring to gain a greater understanding of the Castle and its tumultuous history.

If you choose to visit without a guide (like we did), you’ll be pleased to hear that the signage dotted throughout the complex is actually rather good, and between that and a Lonely Planet we got a decent, if somewhat superficial, understanding of the Castle’s historical significance.

If you’re trying to plan your time in Jordan, one thing you’re probably wondering right now is how long you need at Karak Castle? Well, perhaps unhelpfully, we’re going to say it depends.

We cannot stress enough just quite how large this site is. Extending across seven (!) levels and including towers, barracks, a kitchen, a church and a mosque, prison cells, an underground marketplace, a museum and even a palace, to properly explore the Castle could take hours. Add in the multiple vantage points and incredible views that can be enjoyed, plus the fact that much of the castle is subterranean in nature - and therefore can’t reasonably be explored at speed - and you will inevitably have to sacrifice time in some sections to fully appreciate others.

We spent about two hours there, and although it could easily have been longer, this left us with a decent understanding of Kerak Castle, and enough time to enjoy the vistas at golden hour.

As reconstruction and excavation work is ongoing be sure to bring a torch to explore the darker regions (the one on your phone should do the trick), and watch your head on low doorways. Additionally, as one would expect when visiting a ruin, the ground underfoot can be a little unstable, and the various levels you need to clamber up means that having a decent pair of shoes on is essential.

Top Tip // To view the castle fortifications in their entirety, head to this small off-road car park just out of Kerak town, where there's a good observation point alongside the road, which looks onto the castle's western side. Alternatively, this recently opened restaurant has excellent panoramic views.

How to Get to Karak Castle

Karak’s location on the King’s Highway means that most of you will explore this Crusader Castle when road tripping between Amman / Madaba and Petra.

The is the correct link to use for Google Maps.

From the main highway, the castle is well sign-posted but you will need to drive through the centre of Karak to reach it. This town is full of narrow streets, one-way systems and - at certain times of day - lots of traffic - so take your time and don’t panic.

The real fun (or should we say frustration), is when it comes to parking.

Upon arriving into the town, you will notice several official-looking blue signs pointing you toward what looks like the Castle’s car park (in addition to a young attendant or two on the road nearby to direct you to it). Unlike elsewhere in Jordan, and indeed all other major tourist sites in the country, this parking is not free - it is a private enterprise, separate to the castle, and costs 3 JD per vehicle for the duration of your stay. They market this as secure parking, with CCTV and toilet facilities. On Google Maps, the location even comes up as Karak Castle Parking, and they also have the incorrect listing next door for Karak Castle too - pretty smart if you ask us.

Alternatively, free public parking can be found here, opposite Al-Fid'a Restaurant and near the Karak Plaza / Public Square. Do be aware however that the guys that work at the aforementioned restaurant will likely inform you that these are their parking spaces, allowing you to park for free only if you eat there before or after your visit.

Our experience, and reading reviews on Google Maps have shown that these guys can be a little heavy-handed with some tourists, so we recommend advising them that you’ll pop in for a drink when you’re done. Whether you do or not is absolutely up to you, but our two cans of soft drink were actually needed once we’d finished so we didn’t feel too taken advantage of - but it ended up about the same price as the private car park. We do however highly recommend that you don’t eat here though, as the reviews really are quite dreadful and the prices high.

Those are, as far as we know, the best two options for parking, and the castle is less than a one minute walk away. Note that, though you will see cars parked there, you cannot park on the small road leading up to the castle.

As we mentioned in our ‘23 Things to Know Before You Visit Jordan’ getting around by public transport can be a little limiting, and Karak Castle is no different. At the time of writing, there is no regular nor reliable public transport along the King’s Highway.

If visiting on a day trip from Amman, there is a direct bus that travels along the Desert Highway. Should you be connecting from Petra or Aqaba, there are minibuses from Ma’an however you may find it better to hire a taxi for a flat-rate. This will then allow you travel along the King’s Highway, stopping at various other attractions as you make your way north.

Top Tip // We highly recommend getting a hire car for your time in Jordan. We always book our rentals with an aggregator like Rentalcars.com or AutoEurope to ensure we get the best rate for our dates.

Karak Castle Opening Times and Entry Tickets

The ticket office is located here, and entry is included in the Jordan Pass.

If you do not have the pass, the cost is 2 JD per person.

As with many tourist sites in Jordan, opening times depend upon the time of year. Karak Castle is open from 8am to 4pm between October and March, and until 7 pm from April til September.

We would also implore you to stop by the Colonel’s corner shop - he was a real gent!

Where to Stay in Karak

As we discussed earlier, we actually rather liked the town of Karak, and had our itinerary worked out differently, we’d have been quite happy to spend the night in this little town. Not very touristy, photogenic, and possibly one of the more authentic overnight experiences to have here.

The accommodation with by far the best reviews is Old House, located in the centre of Karak. Previous guests speak exceptionally highly of the owner who has turned his home into a charming guest house for tourists.

Should the Old House not be available, consider Beit Alkaram or, if you’d prefer an apartment, Horses House.