Including why you should alway stay in the historic centre, hire a car and follow the rhythms of southern Italian life, these are 17 essential things to know before you visit Puglia, Italy.
Updated October 2023
If you're a keen follower of Along Dusty Roads, you'll know that we fell a little bit - okay, a lot - in love with Puglia during our first road trip to the boot.
And for good reason.
This delightful southern region of Italy, with its stunning coastline, cute little towns and villages, quaint countryside vibe, and oh so very Italian way-of-life has everything one would hope to find - whether it's your first time in the country or sixth.
As with every holiday however, knowing a little more about what to expect (and some insider tips from people that have already been) can be the difference between a good trip and a great trip. So, that's where this post comes in.
Keep on reading to discover 17 really useful things to know before visiting Puglia - all picked up after three trips to the region - and lots of advice to help you plan your own holiday in a glorious part of Italy.
17 Really Useful Things to Know Before Visiting Puglia, Italy
A Week or Two Is Perfect!
If you’re in the planning stages of your Puglia holiday, then you should know that the southern region of Italy - it’s the ‘heel of the boot’ if you look at the map - is perfect for a week, or even better if done in two.
For those of you aiming to spend around seven days in the region, you have options. Either base yourself somewhere relatively central (Ostuni is a great choice as it’s a destination in itself and is actually where we based ourselves when we returned to Puglia for the second time, but Monopoli is another really great choice, especially during the summer months given that the city itself is on the coast) and then make a few day trips to beaches and surrounding towns, or if you’re drawn to a number of spots on the map that don’t seem terribly close, pick two different places to call home for your stay.
If you’re planning a trip for ten days to two weeks, then the world is your oyster and you’ll be able to cover a lot of ground and have many fantastic experiences at a really enjoyable pace - we opted to do a road trip and recommend this as the best way to explore Puglia.
Keep Reading // There are a variety of routes that you can travel around Puglia, depending upon what you’d like to see and we plan on putting together a few more articles to reflect this. To begin with however, take a look at this in-depth itinerary we followed on our first visit to Puglia.
Oh, and if you’re planning on visiting during the summer months, don’t leave sorting your rental car too late. We book all our road trip vehicles via Auto Europe or RentalCars.com, and usually manage to secure really great rates.
LIFE FOLLOWS A SLOWER PACE...
This is a part of the world where the beating heart of community is set firmly in the rhythms of the past.
This means long siestas, shops opening early in the morning and late afternoon (but not in between) and a true sense that however much of a rush you may be in, it really makes very little difference to those that live here.
Sure, it can get a little frustrating when you want to be productive in the afternoon, but instead of fighting it, go with it. Do your sight-seeing in the morning and save the afternoon for beach time, have an extra scoop of gelato for your afternoon treat to tide you over til your late dinner and generally do what the locals do!
If you’re visiting in the peak summer months you may find that this works better for you - those afternoon temperatures are no joke, especially for those not used to the heat!
Keep Reading // Follow the locals to the sea with our guide to the best beaches in Puglia, filled with our favourite stretches of sand, hidden coves and rocky swimming spots.
...AND EVERYTHING IS JUST SO ITALIAN
Yeah we know this sounds ridiculous; we were in Italy after all. However, during our first visit, having previously only spent time in Rome, Venice and Milan, we weren't prepared for just how Italian Puglia would feel.
Elderly nonnas chatting on the side of the street (each sporting identical haircuts), 'Ape' trucks still being used, as, well, trucks, vespas EVERYWHERE and groups of old men playing cards in the late afternoon sun.
It was like watching a movie - and all kinds of fabulous!
This is just one of the reasons we fell in love with Puglia.
THERE'S AN ABUNDANCE OF ITALIAN TOURISTS
Although Puglia has not yet experienced the explosion of tourism so faced by the likes of Cinque Terre on the opposite side of the country, the days of it being an off-the-beaten-track destination are firmly in its past. In fact, after we'd booked our flights and started doing some research, it seemed like everyone was off to Puglia that summer!
There is a silver lining however - outside of Polignano a Mare, the vast majority of tourists are Italian, which means that although there's still a healthy dose of grey nomads and tour groups, at least you'll still feel like you're in Italy.
Top tip // The majority of tourists stick to the coast, so if you have the time we’d highly recommend heading inland for a day or two. We based ourselves in the charming little town of Sternatia for a few nights during our first stay (in this gorgeous little airbnb - still one of our favourites around the world), and had a wonderful slow experience, surrounded by locals and gained a real small town Italian life.
You really do need a car
As travellers who have spent many an hour (or day) on buses, we're strong believers that you can reach most places with public transport.
Puglia, however, may be an exception to this rule.
Sure, there are trains and local buses, but using them exclusively to cross this varied region is going to take more time than most travellers have. It also means you’ll likely miss many of the small coves and cute little towns and villages that make Puglia so wonderful.
Thankfully for those that choose to travel on a little more of a budget, car hire here really doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. Our first car rental in Puglia was really, really excellent value and whilst in the intervening years it has definitely increased (not helped by the post-pandemic rush to get away plus car shortage), we still secured a fantastic rate during our third visit in September 2022 of just over £35 a day.
Before travelling, to get the best overview on rates and availability, we always search and compare car hire vehicles on both AutoEurope and RentalCars. We have used both these companies exclusively for all our road trips and highly recommend them.
Keep Reading // You can see our Puglia road trip route in this post, but if it’s your first time renting a car and driving in Italy, then you should read this post too.
IT EXTENDS FAR FURTHER THAN OTRANTO...
When we were researching our first trip, it took some time before we released just how large the region of Puglia was, as most articles that we could source to help us plan our route involved sticking firmly to the east coast.
In many cases this was a time-related thing - after all, if you only have three days, you don't want to spend hours in the car. However, we just want to make clear that there is soooo much more to Puglia than just Polignano, Ostuni, Alberobello, Lecce and Otranto!
If you've got more than a couple of days, we implore you to head all the way around the coast to the city of Gallipoli, with its gorgeous historic old town located on an island. This is especially true if you prefer sandy beaches over rocky coves, in which case be sure to the nearby Punta Prosciutto, Torre Lapillo, Santa Maria al Bagno and Parco Natural Reginoale Porto Selvaggio e Palude del Capitano to your itinerary.
Or if you feel like going completely off the beaten track (like we did last year), head up to the pretty little hilltop towns of Foggia or the cave city of Ginosa. You can read more about our our undiscovered tour of Puglia in this guide: A Different Side of Puglia | Caves, Hill Towns & History By The Sea
the lido is king - and bloody confusing
And, if we're honest, kind of annoying.
There are some fabulous beaches in Italy - you can find our favourites in this guide - and we happen to be of the opinion that everybody should have access to them. Unfortunately, in Puglia, as in many areas of Italy, large sections of beach along the coast are either completely inaccessible without paying a fee (many of which tout themselves as beach clubs), or covered in privately owned pay-to-play sun loungers.
These are usually called ‘lidos’ and it means that those of us that make do with a oversized sarong and artfully crafted piles of sand have no choice but to bed down together along narrow slithers of sand that provide 'public access to the sea'.
It's a thorny issue in Italy, and whilst you may see some brave Italians placing towels right at the water's edge, directly in front of the lido’s sun loungers, technically they're on private property and could be moved along. It unfortunately meant that we pulled up to what we thought as a beautiful beach area on a couple of occasions, only to find it an explosion of signs, sunbeds and people, meaning we didn't even get out of the car.
If the somewhat nuanced rules of these beaches become a little too much for you, consider visiting one of the 'free beaches', or spiaggia libera. Although significantly rarer, they at least allow you the opportunity to plonk your towel wherever you damn please!
As for the best beaches in Puglia to visit? We loved those around Ostuni, Otranto and Gallipoli, and the coves we chanced upon whilst driving around the very southern tip at Leuca.
Keep Reading // Want to know more about how these beach clubs work - and why we’re now fans of them after several summers in Italy? Read our post - The Art of The Italian Lido.
YOU HAVE TWO AIRPORTS TO CHOOSE FROM
Flying into Puglia? You have two choices - Bari in the north, and Brindisi about a two and half hour drive further south.
For those travelling from the UK, Bari is the obvious choice.
The flights are more abundant (and a little cheaper)*, plus it’s a gorgeous city to explore - definitely deserving of being on a longer itinerary. You needed spend days there either, with a two hour walking tour covering the main sites.
If you’re planning on doing a full Puglia-loop road trip, and trying to choose between the two airports from a practicality standpoint, it really doesn’t matter too much which one you fly into, or out of as you’ll inevitably pass through both cities.
Oh, and you should know that 'Puglia' - pronounced poo-lee-yah - is the Italian name for the region, whilst ‘Apulia’ is the historical Latin and English-speaking version. You may have seen both in your research, and they can be used interchangeably, but we always go with the Italian.
Tip // Read our guide to Bari for ideas on things to do and where to stay.
*The exception seems to be if flying from Manchester, where there is no direct flight to Bari, but one several days a week during the spring / summer to Brindisi.
You can stay in a trulli
The trulli dotted across the Puglian landscape are a curious structure.
Present for hundreds of years, these cone shaped dwellings have a history that although widely discussed, continue to mystify historians as to their true origins. Were they the result of Greek invasion or deforestation? Or could it be the heavy tax laws of the 17th century, when any permanent structure incurred a significant levy - being able to topple your trulli with the removal of a single keystone would have been of tremendous benefit to poor farmer!
Perhaps we'll never know, but that doesn't make their existence - and experience - any less of a Puglian must.
If simply visiting the trulli-heavy spot of Alberobello (and perhaps taking a walking tour) isn't quite enough for you, consider staying in one overnight. We’ve recommended a number of trulli experiences in various guides across our site but a handful of our top picks include:
Grandi Trulli Bed & Breakfast is one of the best options in Alberobello for those looking for a place which serves as base for a few nights, alongside a unique trulli experience. A two-minute walk from the church, it is over two floors, with a gorgeous en-suite bedroom within its conical roof, a lovely outdoor terrace and breakfast included. Check latest prices and availability.
Astra, is a 16th century trullo set in a wonderfully peaceful and romantic location and run by Giuseppe & Anna-Maria. It's a perfect choice for couples or honeymooners, with prices starting at £117/night.
With its rustic luxury vibe and excellent design features, Il Trullo dell' Agricoltore oozes authentic Italian charm and offers a uniquely beautiful trulli experience in Alberobello for £126 per night.
Hermanas Relais. By far the most luxurious option in the centre of Alberobello (with a price tag to match - £172 per night for two people), this has been beautifully restored to a high standard a boutique hotel feel.
Il Trullo della Massaia| Surprisingly large for, this 400 year old trullo is the perfect combination of new and old. Full of original features, it has been exceptionally well updated to provide the needs of a modern traveller.
I trulli di nonna Totò. Located a little out of Alberobello, you get an awful lot for your money here! Recently refurbished, it has all mod cons plus a lovely little terrace.
The food, although delicious, is pretty standard throughout
To those that have travelled extensively in Italy, this won't come as a surprise. Cuisine here is fairly regional, with most restaurants serving a variation on a theme all year round.
Now, don't get us wrong, food in Puglia is delicious. Seafood is plentiful and freshly caught in almost all towns, pasta is handmade, the pizza is divine, olive oil is local, and we never met a piece of bread we didn't immediately inhale.
We indulged, and indulged even more - and you should too.
There's no denying however that it can get a little repetitive. Not a problem if you're only in the area for a week or so, but if you're travelling for longer, cooking for yourselves for a few evenings may become more appealing (and kinder on the waistline).
For any vegetarians out there, you'll be pleased to know that this is not a difficult region to find plant-based food, and even in the fanciest of seafood restaurants you'll find a bowl of orecchiette pasta with a tomato sauce.
Top tip // There’s nothing like learning to make fresh pasta, from scratch, with your own two hands (although we must admit, having taken three classes thus far, we’re still a long way from being experts!), and the good news for keen chefs travelling to Puglia is that there are an abundance of cooking classes available across most popular tourists spots in the region, including Bari, Lecce, Otranto and Alberobello.
There's no escaping the 'coperto'!
The first few times we ventured to a restaurant we couldn't understand why we were getting charged an additional fee; we'd established that there were service charges levied in many restaurants but the rules of their application didn't seem clear.
The vast majority of restaurants in Italy (and almost all we came across in Puglia) charge something called a 'coperto'. This is an additional fee, charged per person, that is applied to the bill irrespective of what you eat, how much you spend and where you sit. Generally it ranges between one and two Euro per person, which may not seem very much if sitting down for a large evening meal, but will make you think twice if just nipping in for a quick cheap and cheerful lunch.
It is most definitely not a tip though, and the charge should be noted in the menu or signs outside.
Note that the coperto tends to increase the closer you are to big tourist destinations or plazas - yet another reason why it's always a good idea to explore some hidden streets! It is also almost certain to be higher (or supplemented by a 'terraza' charge) if you choose to dine in the outdoors space provided by a restaurant, rather than inside.
Don’t want to be that first-timer in Italy getting unjustifiably outraged at the coperto change or confused about whether to tip or not? Find out more in this short post - What Is The Coperto in Italy?
FOR A QUIETER TIME, AVOID AUGUST
This shouldn't come as much of a surprise. Kids all over the world have holidays during specific months of the year - choose to take yours at the same time and you'll be sharing the beach with noisy adolescents and everything from restaurants to boat tours will be chock-a-block with tourists.
Additionally - and perhaps more importantly for those of you who’d like to save a bob or two - prices will sky-rocket during these peak summer months.
Obviously, we're not saying that to avoid the crowds you have to head over to Puglia in the dead of winter (although we're sure it would lovely, that ocean deserves to swum in!), but by opting for late June or mid-September, you'll get the fabulous weather, but with fewer people, cheaper prices and emptier beaches!
We’ve visited Puglia twice in September and found this to be the most wonderful time of the year to visit the region.
You can nip across to Matera
When we were planning the first leg of our road trip, one place kept popping up - Matera.
This remarkable city, one of the longest inhabited in the world, the 2019 European City of Culture, and the filming location for the latest Bond film, is a no-brainer when planning your Puglia road trip. Of course, it's not actually in Puglia (something that embarrassingly took us a while to realise), but don't you dare let that put you off.
Get lost in the Sassi di Matera, take a slow hike across a ravine, stay in a boutique cave hotel, marvel at the beautiful cathedral, or join a walking tour - there’s plenty to keep you occupied for a few days but if you only have a night, it’s still worth adding it in.
We've created a lovely little guide to Matera, full of things to do, where to stay and how to get there - and of course, lots of pretty pictures!
Did you know ?? // Whilst Matera is by far the most well-known cave city in southern Italy, Puglia actually has its very own miniature version by the name of Ginosa. Located in the Terra delle Gravine Regional Natural Park (alongside Laterza and Mottola, two other delightful off-the-beaten-track canyon towns), this is a land of scars from the deep cuts and crevices of ravines and canyons formed millions of years ago, and the pockmarks of hundreds of human cave settlements carved within the soft tufa rock slopes. It’s a fantastic area to visit, and a delightful alternative to the increasingly busy and popular Matera.
You can read more about these three towns in this post.
English is not that widely spoken
Not a surprise given that it's not an English speaking country, but definitely one to note if you're used to travelling in the north of Italy or other popular tourist destinations in Europe.
The larger hotels will be fine, as are hostels, and fancier restaurants should have at least one member of staff who can speak English, but in small eateries, tiny towns, petrol stations - even our car rental depot - we had to rely on our limited Italian.
Instead of seeing it as a hindrance however, look at it as a fun way to learn a little more about a country, spend some time before your trip learning some basic Italian (a phrase book might come in handy - this is the one that we used) and have fun chatting with locals - you'd be amazed how far a little of the local language can go!
Top Tip // Since visiting Puglia, and falling further for Italy with subsequent summers in Sicily and the north, we made a point of learning some Italian with the Michel Thomas Method. It’s the teacher and technique we used when learning Spanish, and we both personally recommend it to everyone we meet as it’s totally different to how languages are taught in school and so intuitive.
You can get 30% off all his language courses with the discount code ‘MTMADR’.
Always Stay in the Old Town
Every single town and city in Italy has a centro storico, a wonderful place of crumbling facades and labyrinthine streets, now returned to ancient splendour by those who left for the new town many years ago.
Naturally, this is where the tourists flock, and for short stays, by virtue of sights and amenities, where you'll likely spend most of your time.
It's practical - but they're also so beautiful. We found the most photogenic to be in Gallipoli, Locorotondo, and Ostuni.
You're better off making your own breakfast
Breakfast in Puglia (and perhaps all of Italy) is not a fancy affair. Sure, you can have a glass of guilt-free prosecco at ten in the morning - and trust us, we saw this happen A LOT - but beyond this, it's croissant and coffee. Fine on the odd occasion, but if you're anything like us, when we holiday we actually enjoy having a big breakfast of eggs, fruit and all the trimmings.
That's why we love to stay in accommodations with a kitchen - be that a hostel, an Airbnb, or hotel-apartment.
Update | Since having spent many more months in Italy following the initial publication of this post, we’ve come to love the traditional Italian breakfast and now find ourselves craving it on a regular basis! Honestly, give Emily a cornetto al cioccolato and a frothy cappuccino and she’s one happy camper.
If you stay outside of the big tourist cities, prices can be pretty cheap
Not long after booking our flights, we began the arduous task of weighing up various accommodation options - unfortunately, that search began in Polignano a Mare.
Not keen to shell out a small fortune, we couldn't believe that the best Airbnb could offer for £100 a night was a shoddy looking apartment in a not-so-great location. We thought Italy was supposed to be more affordable than that?!
It wasn't until we began searching elsewhere in the region, in tiny towns we'd never heard of - tiny towns many Italians had never heard of - that we discovered exactly how far our money could go.
Obviously, if you're in Puglia, Italy on a short trip (especially if you don't have a car), you'll inevitably end up in the larger tourist spots, but if budget is a real concern, do look around. Simply heading a few kilometres out of town or opting for a beautiful place in the countryside can save a small fortune and open up some amazing travel experiences.
There's excellent weather all year round
Our first visit to Puglia took place in late September, and we were amazed at just how wonderful the weather was. Beach days are shorter than the height of summer but with plenty of days breaching 28C we had ample opportunity to top up our tans, and bar one stormy day in Gallipoli, never had to change our plans because of bad weather.
And whilst the winter months certainly require a jumper or two (our second visit was mid-March), you'll still be able to enjoy most of what the region is famous for - just with a little more time to discover pretty little towns rather than secluded coves.
